DONGJING MENG HUA LU / 卷四
餅店
Fifty ovens before dawn.
The bread trade ran on two shop classes, a three-step bench line and fire — and it began before the city woke. At the fifth watch the sound of the kneading boards carried far and near, and two shops answered for fifty ovens each: Zhang's before the Wucheng King temple, Zheng's before Huangjian Yuan.
COUNT THE OVENS ↓One word, two industries.
The entry sorts the trade into oil-bing shops and hu-bing shops, and each class carries a fixed product line. The hu-bing shop's list runs to seven named breads — the longest unbroken product list in Volume IV's food block.
油餅店
The steamed side of the trade: bings cooked in vapor, packed for carrying, served off trays.
蒸餅糖餅裝合引盤胡餅店
The baked side: seven named flatbreads, every one a shape or a technique — the entry names them and moves on.
門油菊花寬焦側厚油碢髓餅新樣滿麻Three steps, then the sound.
Production is given as bench cells — three to five workers to a case — running a fixed sequence. The entry hears the trade before it sees it: at the fifth watch, the sound of the boards carries far and near.
捍劑
Knead and portion the dough — the work every bench begins with.
卓花
Shape and stamp the pieces — the bench's forming step, bread by bread.
入爐
Into the oven. At scale this is the step that counts: the champions' fifty ovens are all this step.
The entry marks dawn by ear: the city's bread was struck into shape before light, and the bench work carried as sound — 自五更卓案之聲遠近相聞, from the fifth watch the sound of the boards answered near and far.
SOUND BEFORE SIGHT / THE TRADE'S OWN ALARM CLOCK武成王廟前海州張家
五十餘爐FIFTY-PLUS OVENS / HAIZHANG ZHANG皇建院前鄭家
五十餘爐FIFTY-PLUS OVENS / ZHENG OF HUANGJIAN YUAN1. The classes and their goods.
凡餅店有油餅店,有胡餅店。若油餅店,即賣蒸餅、糖餅,裝合引盤之類。
In bread shops there were oil-bing shops and there were hu-bing shops. Oil-bing shops sold steamed bings and sugar bings, boxed sets and serving trays, and the like.
The trade opens with a classification, not a scene: the entry's first verb is a sorting. 油餅店 and 胡餅店 divide the market by method — steamed versus baked — and each class carries a product line as fixed as a shop sign. The oil-bing shop's list ends in packaging (裝合引盤): bread as a takeaway object, boxed and trayed.
2. The line, the sound, the champions.
胡餅店即賣門油、菊花、寬焦、側厚、油碢、髓餅、新樣滿麻。每案用三五人捍劑卓花入爐。自五更卓案之聲遠近相聞。唯武成王廟前海州張家、皇建院前鄭家最盛,每家有五十餘爐。
Hu-bing shops sold menyou, juhua, kuanjiao, cehou, youtuo, suibing, and the new-style manma. Each bench used three to five people to knead the dough, shape and stamp it, and fire it. From the fifth watch the sound of the benches carried, near and far answering each other. Only Hai-state Zhang's before the Wucheng King temple and Zheng's before Huangjian Yuan were most flourishing — each house kept fifty and more ovens.
The sentence structure is the industry's: a product list, a crew-per-bench figure, a fixed three-verb sequence — 捍劑, 卓花, 入爐 — and then sound as scale. The fifth-watch detail converts output into something the whole city heard before it saw. The champions are named by location as much as by family, and measured in ovens — the entry's only capacity figure, and the page keeps it as transmitted: fifty and more.
Two gaps, one family of variants.
Gutenberg's line drops 寬 — printing 菊花、焦、側厚. Both the Siku witness and the simplified cross-check print 寬焦 as one bread name. The page adopts 寬焦.
Gutenberg breaks at an OCR gap; the Siku transcription prints 油碢; the simplified cross-check prints 油栗. The page follows the Siku witness for the filled gap and records the divergence.
Both primary witnesses print 卓 here — the same character family Entry 34 collated at 椅卓 ↔ 椅桌. The page keeps 卓 as transmitted and notes the relation.
Oil-bing shops: steamed and sugar bings, boxed sets, serving trays.
Hu-bing shops: seven named flatbreads, fired in ovens.
First bench step, three to five workers to a case.
Forming step — where the seven breads take their namesake shapes.
Before dawn — when the bench sound carried across the city.
Each champion house's capacity, the entry's only scale figure.
Entry 38 documents industry with a number where other entries use adjectives: seven breads, three steps, five hands a bench, fifty ovens. It is also the volume's quietest technological note — a market that organized itself around fire before sunrise. The bakery is the food city's clock.
自五更卓案之聲遠近相聞。The bread names are textual. One stays disputed.
The primary text is read against the Siku-family witness (Kanripo KR2k0111) and the Gutenberg transcription #24137, with a simplified digitization as cross-check only. The 寬焦 gap is filled from the Siku witness; the 油碢 ↔ 油栗 divergence is recorded, not resolved.